To buy or not to buy: 2011 En Primeur
Many have asked me if 2011 is a good Bordeaux vintage and
if they should invest in en primeur.
2011 Growing Season:
2011 is a difficult vintage – challenging growing seasons
with an intensely hot and dry spring.
Some vines shut down, many grapes got burned, and producers were
expecting one of the earliest harvest in history. Then nature took a turn with a cool July and a rainy August. Botrytis was an issue to some. Despite the tannins not being ripe enough,
some producers harvested early fearing the loss of the crops. Top producers reduced crops (getting rid of
the unripe grapes) and hang on, relying on their experience and hoping for sunny
days. Fortunately nature took a kind turn,
saving the vintage with cool nights and sunny days. What was expected to be an early harvest
turned into a very late one for many producers.
2011 Vintage Performance:
In general, the wines produced are fruity with good
acidity. Unlike the 2009/2010, they do
not have a heavy mid-palate. Alcohol in
general is down, averaging 13-13.5%. Vinification
expertise is crucial to craft a balanced wine with good weight. 2011 is a winemaker's vintage.
Bordeaux white and sweet wines may be a better performer this year, as they are more suited to the 2011 growing season. Merlot based wines grown on clay and limestone soils performed well (better water retention during the intensely hot months); so did Cabernet Sauvignon grown on clay-gravel soil. Cabernet Franc also performed relatively well.
Renowned wine critics Robert Parker described the vintage as closer to 2001 and 2008. The Parker rating is expected to come out later this month.
Renowned wine critics Robert Parker described the vintage as closer to 2001 and 2008. The Parker rating is expected to come out later this month.
Master of Wine Tim Atkins has released his review few
days ago. He gave Haut Brion the highest
rating of 98 points. Fourteen wines were
rated above 95 points, including Haut Brion, Mouton, Cheval Blanc, Leoville Las
Cases, Mission Haut Brion, Montrose, Vieux Chateau Certain, Petrus, Le Pin,
Pontet Canet, Palmer, and Pichon Lalande. Latour
was rated 95 points; many en-primeurs tasters voted Latour to be the wine of the
vintage.
Tasting en primeur is like appreciating a masterpiece
before it is 1/5 finished. How this
vintage will fare in the coming years… time will tell.
To buy or not to buy:
Regardless of the viticulture climate and vintage performance,
2011 may be a special year for some – for example, the birth year of a
child.
The bottom line, if the pricing seems like a great deal,
you have spare cash, and you would enjoy the brand no matter what Mr Parker
says, then there is limited risk in buying early. There are always “good buys” in a stagnant market
and “bad buys” in a lucrative market. Use
your good judgment to discover the value gems.
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