Carmenere:  an once obsolete Bordeaux grape that performs magic

Carmenere is a grape widely associated with Chile; yet its origin traced back to Bordeaux.  Few know that it was widely planted in Bordeaux back in the 19^th Century.  In fact, it is the sixth varietal allowed by the Bordeaux appellation to use in the Bordeaux blend.  Its prevalence, however, diminished rapidly as producers opted for Merlot, a grape which ripens earlier and is easier to grow.

Centuries later, Brane Cantenac re-introduced Carmenere into the vineyard.  Convinced by a Chilean intern that the Bordeaux blend will change in light of global warming, Brane Cantenac started experimenting with Carmenere in 2006.  Carmenere is a grape that thrives well in hot environment. 

This investment turned out well-suited for the 2011 growing seasons.  In the beginning, the climate got so hot that vines shut down and grapes got burned.  A cool and humid August delayed ripening and 2011 turned out to be one of the longest growing seasons (refer to yesterday’s blog for more details).  Carmenere is generally harvested 2-3 weeks later than Cabernet / Merlot.  These extra weeks allow the grapes to obtain the required ripeness. 

Brane Cantenac 2011 only contains 0.5% of Carmenere (56.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, and 6% Cabernet Franc).  Despite the low percentage, Brane’s operating manager Christophe Capdeville credited Carmenere as the magic wand that gave Brane 2011 its “zing” and luring aromas of sweet, exotic fruits.

Considering global warming and Carmenere as a risk-balancing varietal, many Bordeaux producers may follow suit and experiment with Carmenere.  This once obsolete varietal may become the cutting-edge grape!