ROBERT PARKER 2011 RATINGS ARE OUT !! 

While Parker's rating may not be the best indication to whether or not you will enjoy the wine.. but it surely has influence on the en primeur's release price.

Wine Advocate (Parker) just revealed its 2011 en primeur rating.  As expected by the wine industry, the rating is relatively low compared to that given to the grand vintages of 2009 and 2010.   Only 7 wines received higher than 95 points and Ausone is the only chateau with a "96-100" points rating. Lafite receives a rating of 90-93 pts, its lowest score since its 1997 vintage.

Highlights below on the 2011 en primeur:

Angelus 92-95
Ausone 96-100
Beychevelle 87-89
Calon Segur 92-94
Carruades de Lafite 87-89
Chapelle d'Ausone 91-94
Cheval Blanc 94-96
Clinet 91-94
Clos du Marquis 90-93
Cos d'Estournel 90-92
D'Armailhac 90-92
D'Issan 91-93
La Chapelle de la Mission Haut Brion 90-92
La Clarence du Haut Brion 89-91
La Mission Haut Brion 93-95
Lafite Rothschild 90-93
Le Pin 94-96
Leoville Barton 90-92+
Leoville Lascases 93-95+
Leoville Poyferre 91-94
Les Forts de Latour 90-92
Lynch Bages 90-93
Margaux 94-96+
Montrose 91-93

Mouton Rothschild 93-96

Pape Clement 92-94

Pavie-Macquin 92-94
Pichon Baron 90-92+
Pichon Lalande 92-94
Pontet Canet 93-95
Smith Haut Lafitte 91-93
Sociando Mallet 90-93
Talbot 87-89
Troplong Mondot 91-93+
Trotanoy 91-93.

Whether these are gracious rating or harsh rating, we will find out with time. Nonetheless, 2011 will be an affordable vintage when it comes to en primeur!

Carmenere:  an once obsolete Bordeaux grape that performs magic

Carmenere is a grape widely associated with Chile; yet its origin traced back to Bordeaux.  Few know that it was widely planted in Bordeaux back in the 19^th Century.  In fact, it is the sixth varietal allowed by the Bordeaux appellation to use in the Bordeaux blend.  Its prevalence, however, diminished rapidly as producers opted for Merlot, a grape which ripens earlier and is easier to grow.

Centuries later, Brane Cantenac re-introduced Carmenere into the vineyard.  Convinced by a Chilean intern that the Bordeaux blend will change in light of global warming, Brane Cantenac started experimenting with Carmenere in 2006.  Carmenere is a grape that thrives well in hot environment. 

This investment turned out well-suited for the 2011 growing seasons.  In the beginning, the climate got so hot that vines shut down and grapes got burned.  A cool and humid August delayed ripening and 2011 turned out to be one of the longest growing seasons (refer to yesterday’s blog for more details).  Carmenere is generally harvested 2-3 weeks later than Cabernet / Merlot.  These extra weeks allow the grapes to obtain the required ripeness. 

Brane Cantenac 2011 only contains 0.5% of Carmenere (56.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, and 6% Cabernet Franc).  Despite the low percentage, Brane’s operating manager Christophe Capdeville credited Carmenere as the magic wand that gave Brane 2011 its “zing” and luring aromas of sweet, exotic fruits.

Considering global warming and Carmenere as a risk-balancing varietal, many Bordeaux producers may follow suit and experiment with Carmenere.  This once obsolete varietal may become the cutting-edge grape!

To buy or not to buy:  2011 En Primeur

Many have asked me if 2011 is a good Bordeaux vintage and if they should invest in en primeur.

2011 Growing Season:

2011 is a difficult vintage – challenging growing seasons with an intensely hot and dry spring.  Some vines shut down, many grapes got burned, and producers were expecting one of the earliest harvest in history.  Then nature took a turn with a cool July and a rainy August.  Botrytis was an issue to some. Despite the tannins not being ripe enough, some producers harvested early fearing the loss of the crops.  Top producers reduced crops (getting rid of the unripe grapes) and hang on, relying on their experience and hoping for sunny days.  Fortunately nature took a kind turn, saving the vintage with cool nights and sunny days.  What was expected to be an early harvest turned into a very late one for many producers.  

2011 Vintage Performance:

In general, the wines produced are fruity with good acidity.  Unlike the 2009/2010, they do not have a heavy mid-palate.  Alcohol in general is down, averaging 13-13.5%.  Vinification expertise is crucial to craft a balanced wine with good weight.  2011 is a winemaker's vintage.   

Bordeaux white and sweet wines may be a better performer this year, as they are more suited to the 2011 growing season.  Merlot based wines grown on clay and limestone soils performed well (better water retention during the intensely hot months); so did Cabernet Sauvignon grown on clay-gravel soil. Cabernet Franc also performed relatively well. 


Renowned wine critics Robert Parker described the vintage as closer to 2001 and 2008.  The Parker rating is expected to come out later this month. 

Master of Wine Tim Atkins has released his review few days ago.  He gave Haut Brion the highest rating of 98 points.  Fourteen wines were rated above 95 points, including Haut Brion, Mouton, Cheval Blanc, Leoville Las Cases, Mission Haut Brion, Montrose, Vieux Chateau Certain, Petrus, Le Pin, Pontet Canet, Palmer, and Pichon Lalande.   Latour was rated 95 points; many en-primeurs tasters voted Latour to be the wine of the vintage.

Tasting en primeur is like appreciating a masterpiece before it is 1/5 finished.  How this vintage will fare in the coming years… time will tell. 

To buy or not to buy:

Regardless of the viticulture climate and vintage performance, 2011 may be a special year for some – for example, the birth year of a child. 

The bottom line, if the pricing seems like a great deal, you have spare cash, and you would enjoy the brand no matter what Mr Parker says, then there is limited risk in buying early.  There are always “good buys” in a stagnant market and “bad buys” in a lucrative market.  Use your good judgment to discover the value gems.  

Lafite vs. Latour -- the Protagonist vs. the Antagonist of En Primeur Campaign ? 

There were rumors that en primeur 2012 would be very quiet, with aloof buyers after two consecutively expensive en primeur campaigns.  To further darken the sustainability of en primeur, Chateau Latour announced that it will withdraw from the en primeur campaign starting next year.  Cash rich, Chateau Latour does not need en primeur to fund its operations.  Rather the first growth estate prefers to sell direct when the wines are more matured and at a much higher market price.  Other grand cru classes may follow suit if they have abundant reserves and assets.  Needless to say, there were industry murmurs that the en primeur tradition could be dying.  

Luckily for the wine buyers, Lafite revived investment interest this week by being one of the first chateaux to release its en primeur pricing.   Released ex-negociant at Euro 420 per bottle, Lafite priced its first tranche 30% lower than its 2010 release.  This pricing is even 10% lower than the 2004 vintage, making it the lowest priced vintage in recent decades.

Lafite's bold act has garnered much industry respect.  It acts as the big brother and defender of Bordeaux en-primeur, restoring industry confidence and backing the traditional culture. Lafite's pricing has set a reference point for other first growth, putting a cap on their first tranche release price.  The industry reacts very positively.   With such enticing price benchmark, the music has become more luring and more buyers are willing to step onto the dance floor.